Something new in the Canadian Wine world - Canadian Oak Cooperage is producing barrels from Canadian grown oak. These barrels are now available to commercial and amateur winemakers. One more sign that the Canadian wine industry is forming something unique in the world of wine.

On Saturday January 24th, 2004 I was invited to a tasting at the Merrill Inn in Picton, Prince Edward County. A number of people from County wineries or vineyards were present.

After some catching up with some of the participants, we were treated to a powerpoint presentation about the making of barrels - from the forest to the cooper and back. This was really well done, very informative, and the questions from the floor were answered well. All in all, full marks for presentation and content!

After the presentation, we sampled two pairs of wines. Both were from Niagara: Lailey Vineyard 1999 grapes: a Sauvignon Blanc, and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Both were aged about 6 months in small barrels made by Gibbs Brothers - in each case one barrel made from American oak, and the other from Oak grown in Ontario. In both cases the wines were from a demijohn (54 litres) that was then split into the two barrels for ageing. In other words, the only difference in the pairs of wine came from the small barrels they were aged in.

In both cases, it could be argued that the wines were overoaked, but that is a matter of taste, and of course the whole point of the experiment was to impart oak flavour and study the differences!

The wines were of very good quality, and would likely earn some type of medal in most amateur wine competitions. The point of this article, however, is to study the differences between the oak treatments, so I will focus on the differences only.

PAIR ONE: Sauvignon Blanc

Appearance: The wine from the American Oak (AO) barrel was most definitely darker in colour, richer-appearing.

Nose: The Canadian oaked wine (CO) had a nose that was more pungent, sweeter, less soft, more intense but less forward, more complex aromas but less in your face. The AO wine had a bit of that character that I would describe as "whiskey nose".

Palate: The CO wine seemed less sharp/acidic, had milder spiciness, more fat/richness, more evident vanilla/diacetyl, more fruit. The tannins seemed riper and less rough, less astringent and somewhat softer midpalate and on the finish. The finish of both was long and clean, but the CO wine was more complex, perhaps a hair lighter at the finish. The AO wine was heavier, rougher and somewhat simpler.

Conclusion: I would describe the CO wine, in relation to the AO wine, as smoother, richer and more complex. The AO wine was heavier, spicier, bigger and rougher.

PAIR TWO: Cabernet Sauvignon

Appearance: There was no real difference in colour, or at least nothing apparent in the somewhat subdued lighting of the room the tasting was held in.

Nose: The CO wine showed a little more volatile acidity on the nose, and was a bit more pungent as well. The oak aromatics seemed sweeter and richer.

Palate: The CO wine was "sweeter" (not sugar, it was exactly the same wine in the other barrel). It was less spicy, but more rounded - somewhat silkier on the palate. It showed more vanilla, more butter - a fatter wine. It was softer, but in conclusion, less intense. The AO wine seemed to finish a bit longer but again with less complexity.

Conclusion: I would describe the CO wine, in relation to the AO wine, as softer and more complex. I would expect it to be fully mature sooner than the wine from the AO. I would also say that the choice of barrels made more difference in the white wine than in the red.

I asked specifically about amateur winemakers using the logo on their labels and was told that anyone using their products was allowed to use the logo.

For further information about the Canadian Oak products, please contact Canadian Oak Cooperage

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