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Looking south from and north to Wally's Folly / Mosquito Creek Vineyard just before harvest 1998...
A HISTORY OF GRAPEGROWING IN CENTRAL ONTARIO
17th and 18th Century
1811
1855
late 1800's
1916-1927 Prohibition
1925
1940's and 1950's
1992
1993
1994
A south-facing slope sheltered to the North and West was chosen for planting. A small creek runs beside this, and it wasn't long before this spot was called Mosquito Creek (in keeping with varietal naming practice, there were more mosquitoes than creek). The farm was first settled by a Civil War deserter who planted potatoes. A limestone kiln was later made just off the current vineyard, giving us some hope for Pinot Noir. This slope is the last southward extension of the glaciers at this point. The vineyard is a jumbled mess of many rocks and soil types that the glaciers scraped together from points north. The soil runs approximately 25 feet deep, and is located on the edge of the Canadian Shield. (The structure is called the Dummer Morraine, or in our case, Dumber.)
A highlight of this first year was a visit by a sedate, sober winemaker by the name of Salvatore D'Angelo. He approved the vineyard site, but, in his own inimitable fashion, questioned everything else from viticultural practices to the provenance of the planters. Unfortunately, we couldn't write down the sage advice as quickly as it arose, and our shortcoming undoubtedly cost us in the future. We decided to get the vines to grow from very low (short main stems) to make burial easier each winter.
The vines were buried by Wally, Hugh Johnstone and myself. We dug them (partially) underground, consuming some product as we did. A first rule in the future is that you can't bury and drink at the same time, as approximately half the vines died overwinter - we rushed the job and didn't quite succeed in burying them.
In Peterborough, a first crop of 1.5 litres (fermented in 375 ml bottles) oxidized, all but 375 ml. In Smith Township, Dr. Swales planted his first Marechal Foch and Seyval Blanc vines.
1995
We didn't get together to bury the vines until late in the year at which time we had to hack our way through a foot of snow and ice. Wally & I had to work very hard to get ahead of a forecasted overnight low that would certainly have killed off at least the Merlot buds. Had to work too hard for a Swivel Servant (or is that Seyval Servant?)
In Peterborough the vines grew over the rooftop, threatening my 14-year old shingles. Chickened out and harvested early (despite 21.5 Brix, too high in acid). Just under 9 litres of finished wine resulted. That's finished, as in what anyone will be who tastes this turkey.
1996
Planted 20 Landot 4511 vines (see Landot Family Information)" which grew well enough to feed a herd of rogue cattle that travelled far to ravish them. Most survived, barely...
Made 8+ litres of Vidal from Peterborough vines which came in at a respectable 18.5 Brix, harvested in early November. Turned out OK but managed to filter the 8 litres into a 5-litre demijohn. Yup, the floorboards got the rest. Live and learn. Took on two half-partners (telling Ivan to speak in a half-voice is hopeless). A crew of 10 buried the vines. 8 each 3 Bordeaux reds planted in Peterborough.
1997
Competition rears it's ugly head. Winsome Heights is a similar group-effort on the drumlins overlooking the South end of Rice Lake, and two of it's four partners are partners in Wally's Folly. More vines ordered from Mori-Vin in Niagara (Lloyd Schmidt must really wonder!). We should get a crop this year worth some of the effort, if we can just avoid killing ourselves with bad winemaking. Incidentally, Jim Warren from Stoney Ridge Winery has undertaken to make a small quantity of wine from this vineyard if enough grapes can be produced...maybe available at the Buckhorn LCBO???
For fun, we named each vine after a person who has shown an interest in the vineyard. Think of it- you get a phone call that starts out - "Sorry to let you know that you didn't survive the winter".
1998
Dr. Helen Fisher of Vineland Research Station and Guelph University had a chance, after some "gourmet" hot dogs, to visit the vineyard. She left shaking her head and laughing - but nicely!
More growers planted vines. Joining us were small vineyards to the East of Peterborough (20 vines in Keene), the South (20 in Bailieborough) and 20 in Peterborough. They are popping up all over the place. The first commercial grower in the Kawarthas (Lee Etherington at Caza) intends to plant his first 200 vines in 1999. If global warming truly does take place, we’re all going to look like geniuses. When it doesn’t, we’ll all be known for the nuts we really are...
Small quantity of good wine from the older vines in Peterborough.
1999
Started the year at Buckhorn by covering each row in plastic sheeting (a mini-greenhouse) in late April. Within a few days temperatures approaching 50 C forced us to slit open the plastic. A great start, but sloppy growing, not enough work being performed, and a small crop to divide- all had their effects. The white grapes harvested sat in a fridge for more than a month - and had baking soda accidentally spilled on them as well! The red was made by Ken Maley. A few litres only of wine from Peterborough. The Bordeaux vines planted in Peterborough in 1996 produced bugger all. Soil is wrong, location wrong. Oh well... The 1998 White from Wally’s Folly made by Ken Maley won Gold at the Eastern Ontario Amateur Winemaking Competition. So did the white made from the end of my house in Peterborough.
Decided to leave one shoot of each mature vine above ground cover at Buckhorn to check on winter survival.
2000
The 100 vines at Caza were buried but not dug out this spring- and still produced a number of grapes that reached about 10 Brix under the grass...
In 2000 Dr. Bryan Pell started planting Peregrine North (the first 250 vines), and Eleanor and Dr. Garry Humphries planted some Sangiovese on another hill. We have hope for Seven Hills Sangiovese in a few years if we can keep it alive. All we need is five more hills with Sangiovese planted (Rome and Peterborough share the geographic similarity of seven hills- and Sangiovese is the major red grape of Italy).
Many other people are putting in from 5 to 50 vines each. The Central Ontario Grapegrowers Association (COGA - now known as COVA, Central Ontario Viniculture Association) was formed with Bryan as the first President. Trent University conducted an overwinter temperature monitoring at Peregrine North to help provide answers.
The first day of COVA seminars in November was a success. It was held in conjunction with the Eastern Ontario Amateur Winemaking Competition, and presentations on winemaking from AWO members. As well, growers from Tottenham, Quebec and Prince Edward County made presentations at the seminar.
Winsome Heights at Rice Lake is being abandoned just as it showed promise as the property was put up for sale by the owner. Mother Nature seems unable to kill the vines, but human nature... Experimental overwintering methods are being tested on a couple of locations involving woven fabric.
The last wine made from Wally‘s Folly was the recipient of the first international award won by a grape wine produced north of Lake Ontario. It took a bronze medal at Inter Vin International (Amateur). This blend of Landot Noir and Pinot Noir (with minor components Baco, Foch and Merlot) was made by Ken Maley. A fitting tribute for and end to the great experiment. It has proven everything it set out to prove...
2001
A year of contemplation and reflection. Much interest from many people in planting vines. A trip to Minnesota in August paved the way for a future industry. Northern Winework was published. Connections made between grapegrowers from BC across to PEI, and across the northern USA. Growwine listserver expanded to over 200 members, and got very active. Many people starting to think this is for real! Another great day of COVA seminars. A year to gather strength...
2002
COVA formed officially, more than two dozen members including three commercial wineries with grapes planted joining in during the first five weeks of the year. Order for hardy vines (esp Sabrevois, Prairie Star and Delisle) from Breault in Quebec planned. Northern Winework becomes the new "Bible" for cold climate grapegrowers. Plantings planned for Central Ontario as a test. Major petition (getting US vines into Canada) in both English and French was presented to the House of Commons by Dr. Peter Adams, the federal member of parliament for Peterborough. The first AGM of COVA was held at Ocala Winery on April 14th. All-Canada Amateur Wine Championships planned for Peterborough on August 24th (a huge hit - great picnic/bbq beside te vineyard)
2003
A poor growing year, full of disease. Nature took much of the Peterborough crop.
2004
Kawartha Country Wines opens just north of Buckhorn. John Rufa has some hardy vines planted on the property and intends to make grape wine from them. Year of the flood in Peterborough. 230 mm of rain in a few hours, horrid experience, record for Ontario. Made both Peterborough red and white, but the red contained a lot of heavily mildewed Leon Millot which had a severe negative impact on the wine.
2005
Year of too much useless heat - grapes didn't ripen properly, were likely shut down much of the time. Still, the wines from Peterborough were reasonably good this year. Low crop levels due to -32.5C on Dec 20 2004.
2006
Nice dry spring, no miserable winter. Good sized crop, lots of rain through mid-July. Disease pressures. Growwine listserver reaches 300 members. The list of award-winning amateur wines made from grapes grown in Central Ontario is becoming impressive.
2007
Another warm/hot year, but this time it was more consistent than 2005, and the grapes and other fruit from Ontario in general was ripe and abundant. In Peterborough the collapse of an electric fence (probably struck by lightning) in mid-September forced a month-early harvest - in a short period pre-dark - to beat a ravaging horde of Raccoons. The wine was quite nice, in a Valpolicella style.
2008
A long and cold miserable (but not overly cold minimums) winter was followed by just enough nice weather in April to cause budburst, which was followed by weeks of cold wet weather and multiple frost incidents. By the end of May the crops are two to three weeks behind last year. In late April the directors and members of COVA recognized that the greatest problem with growing grapes in central Ontario was the legislation surrounding wineries in Ontario. COVA became OVA, the Ontario Viniculture Association, with Jim Warren joining as President of the organization.
By Larry Paterson
It is certain that Catholic priests and early settlers attempted to make wine for daily usage from the abundant wild grapes, but it is almost as certain that the efforts made thin, acidic nasty wines. Only religious devotion to the sacraments of mass could make these palatable! No wonder beer and whisky were dominant.
Johann Schiller, a retired mercenary, planted vines near Toronto, making and selling wine.
(From p. 22, Wines of Ontario, 1978, William F. Rannie)."At an earlier fair, the 10th Annual Exhibition of the Provincial Agricultural Association in 1855 at Cobourg, prize winners included: "best four clusters of black grapes grown in open air": 1st E.C. Campbell, Niagara; 2nd D.F. Davy, Belleville; 3RD J. HALL, PETERBOROUGH..."
Oh, and a bunch of Frenchmen got together and did some little rating scheme of Bordeaux wines...
A winery in Carleton Place was frequented by Sir John A. MacDonald, first prime minister of Canada. Nothing is mentioned of the quality of the local beverage!
Prohibition caused an enormous increase in wineries south of Highway 17, from Thunder Bay to Belleville. Most did not make award-winning wines, but wine was the only legal alcoholic beverage. One of the primary reasons for founding the LCBO in 1927 was to improve and control the wine industry.
London winery established (guess where) which is well outside the normal southwest Ontario growing area.
A Lakefield historian contacted me to tell me how her family in Peterborough used to grow grapes on the hill overlooking the current Adam Scott Collegiate and Vocational Institute and the river. These were sold at the local markets.
Irwin and Alissa Smith planted the first commercial vineyard in modern Central Ontario, which to date (July 2006) is doing just fine, thank you! They have quite substantial acreage south of Port Perry just off Highway 12.
I planted 4 Vidal vines donated by Paul Bosc Sr. against the south wall of my house. There is a reddish brick wall one foot behind them, and a black driveway three feet in front. Our house and the house to the west shelter the vines from any North or West winds. Despite my best efforts, the vines grew reasonably well, with one reaching about 10 feet of length. They were buried overwinter with dirt, surviving multiple cold nights approaching -40.
The vines came up alive and six partners decided to go ahead and plant 70 more vines. 2 (merlot & pinot blanc) joined the first 4 at my house and the rest were planted on Wally Henry's (Henry of Buckhorn) 100-acre farm south of Buckhorn near Sandy Lake. Wally's Folly was planted with 14 each of Pinot Blanc and Merlot, and 10 each of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Zweigelt & Gewurztraminer. Our eventual goal?? - simply to produce a bottle of wine grown on the Canadian Shield that wouldn't kill the drinker.
There were no flowers on year-old vines (as there had been in Peterborough). Growth was slow, and we realize we must use some fertilizers. We planted additional vines to make up for poor over wintering- more Cab Sauv & Merlot as well as some Kerner, Seyval, Chardonnay, Riesling, and, most masochistic of all, 20 Pinot Noir vines. The Seyval produced 10 small bunches of grapes. Took in a seventh partner.
Some lousy year, huh? Vines in Peterborough ripened well, but those in Buckhorn suffered from an early frost and didn't ripen well at all. Made "BABY", just over 2 litres of neon pink rose made strictly from vinifera grapes grown in Peterborough County. Fermented it in one weekend on top of a fridge (must acknowledge Mr. Redpath's heavy contribution to the eventual alcohol). There was one perfect, completely ripe bunch of Pinot Noir. If only...(1998 tasting note - the last 200ml bottle of Baby was delicious!!!)
Six of us cut cedar posts for new trellising in January (in three hours of pouring rain). Accomplishing this requires real dedication. Purchased Dornfelder and Traminette cuttings from Vineland Research Station to see how they would do (They died). 300+ vines planted, more than 100 of them Pinot Noir, growing well. Ripened a large number of grapes which fed a huge flock of crows. By such is a man’s character tested. Much blue air above the vineyard and a strong desire to net the vineyard in 98.
The "great" year - We started by not pruning early enough, not spraying early enough, not getting things done when they should be. We may need more partners willing to do the work and less who wish to plan. We lost about two thirds of the crop because we messed up. Won’t happen again. Nature took care of our shortcomings and produced wine anyway. About 65 litres in all.
5 new partners taken in at Wally's Folly, making it 18 lurkers. Caza Berry Farm planted 100 each of Baco and Seyval. 45 new vines ordered to replace those not ripening in 1998. More small vineyards - popping up everywhere now - but not in any quantity.
Dug out Wally’s Folly in late April, and put a bit of perforated plastic (green housing) over some rows. The Landot Noir and Marechal Foch survived the -30 C minimum temperature recorded in the vineyard, and formed clusters. On May 19 the temperature was -4 to -5 C. This toasted everything in the vineyard - except the vines near the ground under the perforated plastic. Even Marechal Foch growing 4 feet above ground was lost this time. But the property was put up for sale and this was the last work done in the vineyard in 2000 - or for the forseeable future.
..............Looking south from and north to Wally's Folly / Mosquito Creek Vineyard just before harvest 1998...
East Central Ontario
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