First Joseph Pohorly Ph. D in Ontario in his winery produced a few bottles, and then Inniskillin's Karl Kaiser embarked upon the task of producing icewine consistently and studying the viticultural and vinicultural characteristics in detail.

Growing suitable grapes for icewine requires passion, knowledge, patience and co-operation of nature.

The first important piece of information required is the grape variety. In Ontario vidal, a thick-skinned French hybrid, proved to be very suitable. It resists shattering when the grapes start freezing. Riesling, a thin-skinned grape, yields more refined wines, but losses due to shattering are considerable. Today many other grape varieties (sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, pinot, pinot blanc, cabernet franc) are also employed but in small quantities.

Yields are approximately ten percent of regular. Special and powerful basket presses are needed to process the frozen grapes Modern wineries use specially designed and very powerful presses for speedy processing. Harvesting must occur - 8 C and before the sun rises to ensure that the fruit arrives at the winery still frozen. Another important cost to factor in is the fact that ripe grapes must be netted to protect the fruit from ravenous birds. (A few grapes growers lost a year's crop within 20 minutes to ravenous birds a decade ago because they had not netted their vines).

VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) regulation stipulate that for icewine grapes must be frozen for at least 24 hours at - 8 C or below before harvesting can begin. Luckily, in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula such temperatures occur regularly.

Presently Ontario is the largest icewine-producing jurisdiction in the world. Germany, British Columbia, Austria, Slovenia and New Zealand also produce icewine in limited quantities if and when weather conditions are favorable.

Well-made icewine wafts dried fruit (apricot, peach, pear) aromas, is sweet but never cloying and possesses flavour intensity along with phenomenally long aftertaste. It can be paired with fruit-based desserts, even light chocolates, used in cooking or simply enjoyed instead of dessert.

Presently there is a surplus of Ontario icewine although large wineries are valiantly trying to open new markets in Europe. Pacific Rim markets import appreciable quantities but fraudulent products and poor economic conditions in some markets reduced and continue to reduce sales.

L C B O features icewines once a year in its Vintages division catalogue. Recently I had the opportunity to taste over 20 icewines and found the following to be worth considering.

All prices are for 375 ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

Vidal 2004 Royal de Maria (544403) $ 56.95 Appealing straw colour Honey, apple and nut aromas waft out of the glass. Balanced with intense tropical flavours underlined with vanilla. Long finish 89/100

Vidal 2003 Southbrook (525634) $ 39.95 Old gold colour. Offers dried pear, banana, and apple aromas. Well-balanced with rich and unctuous. Very long and pleasant aftertaste. 91/100

Vidal 2004 Pillitteri (370007) $ 34.95 This winery is the largest producer of icewine in Ontario and famous for its consistency. Honeyed, exotic fruit aromas waft out of the glass, followed by extraordinarily intense apricot and pineapple flavours. Creamy texture with a pleasant medium-long aftertaste. 89/100

Riesling Icewine 2003 Malivoire (591321) 200 ml $ 36.00 Anne Sperling, the former winemaker of the winery, has a particular talent with icewine. This example shows floral, minerally aromas with a delicacy seldom found in icewine. Flavours are well balanced and complement the sweetness. Long finish. 90/100

Gewurztraminer 1999 Stoney Ridge (91242) $ 59.95 This barrel-fermented icewine has a deep bright golden colour. Lychee, orange, ginger and nut aromas predominate. Soft, luscious, full-bodied and beautifully balanced with intensity seldom encountered in icewines. You should enjoy this wine instead of dessert to appreciate its extraordinary elegance and long aftertaste.

Sparkling Icewine 2003 Inniskillin (560367) $ 54.95 Whereas the majority of Ontario wineries produce still icewine, only a few attempt to undertake the difficult task of creating this delicate yet tropical fruit smelling wine. This effort shows mango, papaya, honey and beeswax aromas. Fine and persistent mousse renders the wine light but still pleasantly textured. Long finish. 91/100

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com