CANADIAN CHEESES MATCHED WITH ONTARIO WINES
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

July 14, 2006


Canadian cheeses are getting more recognition both at home and abroad, but of all provinces, Quebec reigns supreme in innovative and imaginative cheeses.

Ontario produces mostly hard cheese, mainly cheddar, while Quebec excels in soft creamy products.

According to experts, there are well over 2000 different cheeses in the world, and Quebec produces more than 200 varieties. France produces close to 400 and is the leader in both production and consumption of cheese. Rarely will a restaurant meal fail to finish with a variety of cheeses and to finish the remainder of the wine in the glass.

Artisan cheese makers of Quebec enjoy more freedom in their production and experiments. As a result of this “artistic freedom”, they invent different types every year, and more and more people recognize their superior imagination.

Cheese is essentially a simple product, but it’s simplicity that makes it complicated. The smallest mistake can result in a failed batch.

It takes approximately 10 liters of milk to produce one kilogram of cheese. There are fresh, soft, semi-soft, firm and hard cheeses.

Fresh cheeses are rind less, soft, unripened and relatively bland. Ricotta, cream, cottage, crème fraiche fall into this category. They contain a high amount of moisture. Soft cheeses have an edible rind, are white, soft velvety and may be washed. Brie, Camembert, Emperor fall into this category. Feta is a rind less soft cheese originated in Greece, but many other countries in the Middle East produce feta. (Bulgaria, Romania, and Turkey, are big producers and consumers. Now even Denmark and France produce feta for export to some Arabic countries).

Semi-soft cheeses range from mild to sharp and often have a paraffin coating. Monterey Jack, Oka, Havarti, Mozzarella, St Paulin fall into this category.

Firm cheeses are aged, and pending on the length of aging, may taste mild or sharp. They age well, can be frozen, and used in a variety of applications. Freezing makes firm cheeses brittle. Thaw frozen cheese in the refrigerator (Emmenthal, Gruyere, Gouda, Provolone, Cheddar fall into this category).

Hard cheeses keep well, and most have a sharp taste. They are grated and used in sauces or for gratineeing. (Parmesan, Sapsago, old Gouda fall into this category).

There us an unprecedented interest in cheese among young and well-traveled professionals looking constantly for taste sensations. Cheese provides diversity, a range of tastes, and enhances both food and wine.

Matching food and wine is fun and educational

Here are some suggestions:
All cheeses mentioned are produced in Quebec and Ontario, although their style may originate elsewhere.

Caerphilly (crumbly, goat milk cheese) goes well with Pinot Blanc from Konzelmann, Pinot Gris from Inniskillin, or Pinot Gris from Vineland Estates Vineyards; Unoaked Chardonnay Pillitteri; Lakeview Riesling, Riesling Reserve from Cave Spring Cellars.

Reserve Baco Noir from Henry of Pelham, Cabernet Sauvignon from Peninsula Ridge, Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc of Jackson-Triggs, Cabernet Franc from Tawse Winery are highly recommended with Toscano (originally from Italy under the name pecorino).

Seven-Year-old Cheddar is best matched with Carlo Negri’s Signature 2002 from Colio Wines, or proprietor’s Selection Cabernet/Shiraz 2002 from Jackson-Triggs, 2002, or Cabernet/Merlot 2002 from Chateau des Charmes.

Tomme de Gros Ile (Quebec) goes best with Sauvignon Blanc form Henry of Pelham, or Vineland Estates Vineyards, or Chardonnay form Malivoire or Pinot Blanc from Konzelmann.

For a gastronomic thrill try Gamay from Henry of Pelham, Trius red from Hillenbrand, Reserve Baco Noir form Henry of Pelham, and Cabernet Franc 2002 Tawse Winery with Cantonnier (Quebec).

Vidal Icewine from Lakeview Winery, Select Late Harvest Vidal from Reif Winery, Indian Summer Riesling from Cave Spring Vineyards and Late Harvest Vidal from Colio with matched with Bleu Ermite from Quebec will make you a believer in the quality of well made Ontario wines. This will be a revelation and gastronomic nirvana.

For best selection of cheeses visit Alex Farms at St Lawrence Market (and seven other locations on Ontario), Kensington market in Toronto, Pasquale Bros Downtown in Etobicoke.

NOTE: Vintages are very important on Ontario wine labels. Always buy vintages that are rated very good or exceptional.

Wineries mentioned above produce consistently fine wines. If the vintage is less than good they will sell any of their brands in bulk to less quality oriented wineries.


Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca


Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com