MATCHING CANADIAN CHEESES WITH LOCAL WINES.
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

March 16, 2008


Only three decades ago, to most Canadians cheese meant cheddar. Maybe a few people knew about cottage cheese, Oka, and Brie, or Camembert from Quebec. That is where the connoisseurs stopped, although Italian cheese producers in Ontario were churning out caciocavallo, asiago, friulano, mozzarella and even bocconcino, but only for few immigrants.

Since then, very gradually, and mainly in Quebec, the situation changed, mainly because the government in that province the milk quota system was more liberally interpreted and applied. In Ontario the rigidity of the milk quota system restricts cheese producers’ capacity to increase production, economic opportunities, and more importantly, stifles artisan cheese makers’ imagination.

Thanks to enlightened gourmets, cheese consumption in Canada is increasing. Quebec, and Ontario lead the pack, but British Columbia and Atlantic provinces are not far behind.

Logically, Ontario, Quebec, British Columbia, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Price Edward Island should be producing fine cheeses. The pastureland is plenty, the cows are content, and farmers there can obtain pretty much the specie of cow most suitable for their objective.

Quebec cheese makers excel in cream cheeses, and have invented many new ones to please the palates of Montrealers and importers in Ontario.

The situation with wine is somewhat different. Ontario produces much more and diverse wines than Quebec mainly due to geography.

British Columbia, although a relative newcomer to the wine scene, proved in the last decade that the Okanagan Valley could compete with the best in the world as newly established Osoyoos Larose amply proves. But there are many other wineries in British Columbia that produce fine wines including; Misison Hill, Red Rooster, Burrowing Owl, Gehringer Brothers, Vincor, Inniskillin, Ink Mip.

Here are some selected cheeses and matching wine:

Sir Laurier d’Athabaska, Fromagere Cote, Quebec. Chardonnay, Malivoire (573147) $ 22.00

Bleu Benedictine, Abbaye St Benoit, Quebec. Riesling Icewine, Henry of Pelham, Ontario, 375 ml 430561 $ 54.95, Vidal Icewine, Lakeview Cellars, Ontario, 200 ml $19.95

Maurielle, Eco Delices, Quebec, Pinot Gris, Malivoire, Ontario (591305), $ 17.95

Delice des Appalaches, Eco Delice, Quebec. Old Vines Chardonnay 2004, Angels Gate Winery, Ontario (027540) $ 23.95

Balderson Cheddar, 5 year old, Parmalat, Ontario. Proprietors Grand Reserve Meritage 2004 Vincor Okanagan Valley, B C (643460) $ 20.95

Liptoi Chephers Gourmet Dairy, Ontario. Cabernet, Chateau des Charmes, Ontario (454991) $ 14.25

Oka, Quebec. Cabernet Sauvignon, Trius, Hillebrand, Ontario (587956) $ 14.95, Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Merlot, 2004, Vincor, Ontario, (643445), $21.95

Chevre, Fromagerie Tournevent, Quebec. Sauvignon Blanc, Henry of Pelham, Ontario (430546) $ 14.95

Chevalier, Quebec. Chardonnay Musque, Cave Spring Celllars, Ontario, (246579) $ 15.95, Chardonnay reserve, Reif, Ontario, (252163) $ 16.95

Triple Cream,Quebec. Pinot Noir Bench, Stoney Ridge Winery, Ontario, (240903) $ 12.95, Chardonnay Reserve, Mission Hill Winery, B.C. (545004) $ 18.95, Blanc de Noir Lily Sparkling wine, Colio 2004, Ontario (618512) $ 14.75

Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com