CHOCOLATE AND WINE
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

February 14, 2008


North Americans love affair with chocolate and wine continues unabated. Only twenty years ago there were only a few chococlatiers in Canada; today this number is well above a dozen and continues to grow. Toronto, Montreal, Calgary, Vancouver and Victoria have become chocolate havens and most producers locate where demand is strong.

Chocolate production evolved to a fine art since the introduction of cocoa to Europe in the 16th century after the discovery and exploration of Mexico and Central America. Swiss, Belgian, Spanish and French chocolatiers contributed mostly to the refinement of techniques, and to this day dominate the market although English, American, Canadian, Polish, German, Dutch and Japanese have made remarkable progress.

Now that wine consumption keeps increasing and people have become more knowledgeable about wine, the initiated like to enhance the taste of chocolate and wine by appropriate and complementary combinations.

Wine and chocolate are two of nature’s greatest treasures. Each stimulates the palate and challenges the mind.

Wine enthusiasts examine the colour first, then smell, sip and taste. Chocolate tasters examine the sheen of the product, smell it (chocolate contains 600 natural aromas), snap off a piece (the darker the chocolate the more snap it has); savour (chocolate should melt in your mouth, and evolve in flavour intensity, show its balance of sweetness and possess a long finish). Waxy texture reveals poor quality and short “conching”.

Milk chocolates go best with ice wines, tawny ports, and oloroso sherries, bittersweet with monastrell wines from Spain, dark with Banyuls from southern France, young port wines, dark with nuts and fruit pair best with Recioto della Valpolicella from Veneto in Italy.

Chocolates have five basic tastes – caramel, fruity, floral, earthy/vegetal and spicy/nutty.

Each taste category has further nuances.

Caramel –honey, brown sugar, toffee, molasses, butterscotch, butter and cream.

Fruity – strawberry, raspberry, black cherry, peach, apple, apricot, pineapple, banana, plum, raisins, figs and citrus.

Floral – perfume, citrus blossom, rose, jasmine.

Earthy/vegetal – fresh grass, mint, olive, mushrooms, wood, tobacco, tea and leather.

Spicy/nutty – vanilla, coffee, cinnamon, licorice, pepper, peanut, almond, hazelnut, and walnut.

Now that you know how to taste chocolate and wine and pair both, get a few friends and buy some chocolate from the following manufacturers: Lindt, Neuhaus, Callebaut, Simone Marie, Scharfenberger, Hershey’s premium cocoa reserve and extra dark line of chocolates, Purdy’s, Roger’s, Belgian Chocolates Toronto, Valrhona, Hachez, Meiji, and a few bottles of wines (see chart below). Then enjoy several hours of delectable experiences never before encountered.

Milk chocolate- Tokaji two or three puttonyos quality, oloroso sherries, ice wines, tawny ports.

Bittersweet chocolate – Amarone della Valpolicella, from Tedeschi or Masi

Dark chocolates - LBV port, sweet monastrell wines, cream sherries.

Chocolate covered biscotti – Recioto della Valpolicella, from Masi or Tedeschi

Chocolate-orange cake – Muscat de Beaume de Venise, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Muscato Naturale from Piedmont, Moscato Zibbibo from Sicily, Passito di Panteleria from the island of Panteleria.

Chocolate with nuts - Tawny or young ports.

Dark chocolates with nuts – Recioto della Valpolicella, Banyuls

Chocolate dipped fruit – Ice wines from Ontario, Germany, Austria.

Chocolate ganache truffles - Sauternes, Barsac, Vin Santo

Chocolate hearts with cream filling- cream sherries.


Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca


Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com