FLAT ROCK CELLARS - JORDAN - ONTARIO'S NEWEST WINERY
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

AUGUST 31, 2005


Flat Rock Cellars, the newest boutique winery of Ontario; offers not only spectacular views but also extraordinary wines. Ed Madronich has a wine marketing background and is very well grounded in the realities of grape growing in the province. He decided to concentrate on grape varieties he believes best suited to the Niagara Escarpment terroir; accordingly, he markets mainly varietal and one blended brand.

His chardonnays are elegant, flavourful, balanced with a long aftertaste, riesling light and crisp, typical of the variety, pinot noir delightful and deeply flavoured. The brand Twisted consists of gewürztraminer for aroma, riesling for support, and chardonnay for background. This off-dry wine is designed for the average consumer, but delightful and playful in its flavour. The vidal icewine is concentrated and very well balanced, elegant and refined.

The gravity-flow winery, designed to handle at peak 12,000 cases, is surrounded with 35 hectares (80 acres) of meticulously maintained vineyards part of which was planted in 2000 and rest a year later. A few acres were added in 2004. Although the vineyards are still relatively young, one would not know it from the flavour of the wines. All vineyard blocks are well drained and partially on heavy loam on limestone with a particularly thick layer of clay/loam and rocky/loam on limestone.

Ed Madronich planted 4250 vines per hectare, and aims at harvesting six to six-and-a-half tonnes of fruit per hectare. This compared to other wineries is low, thus designed to yield deeply flavored wines. Ever the experimenter in the winery Ed employs barrels from a variety of French producers: Cadus, Dammy, Francois Frere, Seguin-Moreau, Berthomieu. To preserve, Flat Rock uses exclusively screw cap enclosures, in an attempt varietal character and freshness, a first in Ontario.

The imaginatively designed label reflects the philosophy of Flat Rock Cellars - purity of flavour.

Just before the official opening ceremonies on May 26, 2005, this author had the opportunity to taste barrel samples of 2004 vintage chardonnays aged in Cadus, Damy, Francois Freres barrels. Of the entire first showed best. This was a unique experience clearly proving the importance of selecting the right barrel for a particular wine. The best experimental wine was 2004 chardonnay fermented with wild yeasts and aged in Seguin-Moreau barrels; this I found the most intriguing and exciting. The flavour of wild yeast gives to the wine is completely different flavour than those laboratory-cultivated yeast. Admittedly, this chardonnay would please a small fraction of wine consumers due to its unusual aromas intermingling with chardonnays typical apple/pear smells.

The winery has a hand harvest only policy, and strict sorting before crush.

Gleaming small stainless steel fermentation tanks show visitors that no expense was spared to produce small-batch fine wines, but more importantly the philosophy of pricing all wines reasonably should please all looking for fine bottles that satisfy without breaking the bank.

After the barrel tasting, Ed conducted an official tasting of all his bottled wines from the 2004 vintage with the exception of pinot noir, which was 2003.

Chardonnay - pleasantly pale with greenish hues, minerally on the palate, full-bodied and creamy. Long finish $ 16.95

Riesling Nadja's Vineyard from a bloc in the upper part of the vineyards. A fruity, acid-driven wine of elegance. Long aftertaste and made to complement food particularly pan-fried whiter-fleshed fish with cream sauces or seafood pasta with cream sauce $ 19.95

Riesling - an off-dry, clean, balanced, charming wine for summer sipping, or fruit bowls. $16.95

Twisted - the only blended wine of the winery consisting of gewürztraminer, riesling and chardonnay. Perfumey, fruity, succulent balanced and exudes purity of flavours. A fine sipping wine, or to complement light lunches $ 16.95

Pinor Noir rose an excellent rose with almond undertones and slightly bitter, but pleasant finish $ 14.95

Pinot Noir 2003 appealing typical pale red colour, restrained fruit, medium weight, with a fine finish $ 23.95

Flat Rock Cellar wines are exclusively available at the winery.


Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca


Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com