The first French settlers in Quebec in the 16th century attempted to make wine for religious ceremonies, but abandoned the practice. The wines were too thin and acid. Simply put, undrinkable, even for the sake of religion.

The first relatively successful winemaker was a retired German soldier Johann Schiller, who in 1811, planted vineyards in Cooksville (now Mississauga) to labrusca grapes.

It took another 55 years to establish the first commercial Ontario winery on Pelee Island called Vin Villa. The remains of the building still stand today.

Pelee Island is the most southerly landmass in Canada on the same latitude as northern California. In late 1800’s there were as many as 35 wineries in Ontario.

From 1916 – 1927 the Canadian temperance Act prohibited the production of spirits and beers, but allowed wine to be sold legally. The Prohibition laws of the United States of America resulted in a flourishing production of all kinds of alcoholic beverages and bootlegging.

The L C B O (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) was established in 1927 with the mandate to regulate and distribute alcoholic beverages in an orderly fashion in Ontario. Today it is one of the largest alcoholic beverage purchaser in the world, and monopoly that contributes billions of dollars to the provincial coffers.

Up to 1950’s scientists at the Horticultural Research Institute at Vineland in the Niagara peninsula maintained that European, tastier, and suitable vitis vinifera varieties cannot survive Ontario’s super cold winters.

Some European growers thought otherwise, including Adhemar de Chaunac, who at the time worked for T.G. Bright’s winery. He planted 40 of the most famous and best vinifera varieties including chardonnay and pinot noir. Some grew and adapted well, but hybrids of French varieties developed by hybridizers and nurseries, i.e Marechal Foch, Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Verdelet, de Chaunac, and Chancellor yielded better and survived cold weather well.

From 1940’s to 1970’s Ontario wineries produced mainly fortified “sherry” and “port” type wines. Table wines were heavily chaptalized, manipulated, and tasted thin. According to some wine writers and reporters, from one ton of grapes adding water, colouring matter and sugar produced 2000 liters of wine.

Wine drinkers even though unfamiliar with vinifera wine taste characteristics, quickly decided to purchase French and Italian wines.

In 1975 General Kitching, then the chairman of the L C B O granted the first winery license to Inniskillin, founded by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser since the Prohibition.

This led to a momentous explosion of wineries. Chateau des Charmes, Hillebrand Estates, Cave Spring Cellars, Henry of Pelham, Pelee Island Winery and Colio Estate Wines came on stream between 1975 and 1980.

Today there are close to 100 wineries, and the biggest two (Vincor and Andres) control a large segment of the market.

The North American Free Trade Agreement and the elimination of preferential treatment of Ontario grown wines necessitated a radical upgrading of quality and restructuring the industry.

Somehow winery owners were able to persuade the government of the day to subsidize uprooting of 65 percent of existing vineyards (all vitis labrusca stock) and replanting the land with vitis vinifera vines.

In 1989 Donald Ziraldo headed the movement to create Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) to regulate and control provincial wine production.

The growth of wineries continued and escalated from 18 in 1989 to 51, excluding fruit wineries. (All wineries combined exceeded 100 in 2007).

VQA standards were proclaimed law in Ontario by 2000, with the mandate to regulate province’s appellation systems and to ensure that all the wines carrying the VQA label met standards set.

One year later the European Union (EU) adopted legislation granting permission to import Canadian icewines to EU markets.

Today some 66 Ontario wineries produce VQA wines, with a 42 percent market share and 21 percent of total wine sales.

In 2002 Ontario produced 625 000 liters of icewine. Much of it is exported to Pacific Rim countries and some to Europe.

Today 5,200 hectares of land is devoted to vineyards yielding an average of 43,700 tones of fruit. Production hovers around 44 million liters.

A few of the Ontario wines (red, white and sweet) are of excellent quality and could compete with the best anywhere, but alas, there are still too many that could only be considered mediocre at best and occasionally even less than that.

Weather patterns of the last decade have contributed to very positive changes, but occasionally poor vintages still occur.

Advanced winemaking technology and the creation of Cool Climate School of Enology at the Brock University helped improve quality and manpower shortage significantly.

Marketing of Ontario table wines occurs through winery operated stores, L C B O stores, direct sales to licensees, direct mail and the Internet. Other provinces buy some Ontario wines, but provincial barriers still block a totally free flow of wines coast to coast. Mark ups are very high for all alcoholic beverages making prices prohibitive to some potential consumers and encourage homemade products. There are even companies that produce the wine for people who grow grapes or purchase imported grapes.

The L C B O has several levels of distribution starting with the general list, and continuing with Vintages bi-monthly releases, bi-annual Classics Catalogue releases, consignment programmes, and special imports.

The history of Ontario’s wine industry is still evolving and in “ferment”.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com