This fragrant, sweet, but not cloying and superbly balanced wine was an immediate success. At the time a 375 ml was selling for $ 25.- ( a small " fortune " at the time considering the price of wine in general ) and a year later you had to reserve your bottle (s) a year in advance. This may have been a marketing ploy or the quantities produced were so small and demand so high that Inniskillin had to resort to this marketing technique. By 1992 however, there was no shortage of icewine and today there seems to be a glut. When in 1991 an Inniskillin 1989 Riesling icewine was granted Grand Prix d'Honneur at Vinexpo, Bordeaux, France ( the most prestigious of wine competitions in the world ) , the fame spread all over the world very quickly. Far Eastern markets ( Thailand, Hong Kong, Japan, China, Singapore and Taiwan ) were opened with successful advertising and strategic marketing, particularly on the part of Donald Ziraldo, one of the founding partners of Inniskillin. Since then exports to Far Eastern countries increased by leaps and bounds and still continue, despite the recent recession in the recently industrialized economies of the region including Korea.

European markets are also being opened but more slowly because of obstinate and unfounded resistance of traditional wine producing countries. In an ironic twist there are even European countries faking icewines.

Icewine producers take a lot of chances even before a drop of it comes off the presses. First the grapes must be suitable and season hot enough to ripen the fruit fully. Vidal (a hybrid of Ugni Blanc and Seyval Blanc), Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc are all suitable. Most wineries prefer Vidal because its thick skin prevents splitting of the berries when the cold weather sets in.

By VQA regulations icewine grapes must have acquired a minimum of 38 Brix of sugar, and be frozen on the vine prior to picking. When the cold weather sets in ravenous birds love to attack these luscious, grapes. Anecdotal evidence suggests that once a flock of birds descended upon an acre of icewine grapes and picked the vines clean within an hour. Today practically all growers cover their icewine vines with nets.

Frozen grapes are picked at 10 - 12 below zero Celsius and pressed in basket presses on the field in an attempt to obtain the " heart ", sweetest and best part of the fruit. 80 per cent of each berry consists of water. Since it is the water that freezes with the slow, gradual pressing the must obtained is extremely sweet and aromatic. One tonne of frozen grapes yields anywhere from 80 - 100 litres of must, which is fermented slowly using specially cultured yeasts. This extremely low yield requires the high prices charged. Today many wineries charge from $ 45.- to 115 for a 375 ml gift-packaged icewine.

Icewine possesses a natural, intense sweetness, a highly aromatic bouquet reminiscent of dried fruits, and depth of flavours without equal in the realm of dessert wine.

In my opinion Riesling and Gewurztraminer yield the best icewines, and both are always much more expensive than those from other grapes. By a felicitous accident sparkling was invented and to date, two Ontario wineries ( Magnotta and Inniskillin ) produce this extra special wine. The icewine undergoes a second fermentation and is bottled under pressure in special bottles sporting champagne-like closures. It is also an unqualified success both in and out of the country.

Contrary to the contention of most people, vintage in icewine does matter a great deal. While the fruit must be ripe, it must also contain sufficient acidity to balance the wine. 1998 yielded an abundant, ripe harvest, resulting in a fine icewine, which lacked the refinement and balance of 1995 and even 1997. Nature gave Ontario vignerons an ample harvest in 1999 with more acidity. But now there is a glut on the market.

Pacific Rim countries that imported huge quantities reduced their imports, and Canadians can only absorb so much of it.

What to do? Factor in D. Ziraldo again! He, the genial marketer that he is, thought that a specially designed glass would create extra demand while increasing the enjoyment of the product. To this end he contacted the world-famous Austrian glass manufacturer George Riedel and convinced him that developing a specially shaped glass would be a worthwhile exercise . After many work shops the ideal icewine glass was invented incorporating which is now incorporated in Riedel's Vinum Extreme series of glasses. The icewine glass has a capacity of 400 ml. and wide circumference in the middle with a tapered opening for the bouquet to develop. The tapered opening channels aromas to the nose and develops flavours more fully.

Icewine is best enjoyed on its own, or with dried fruits ( apricots, cherries, and figs are best , also dates, apples, pears and prunes can be used ). Ripe blue cheeses with sautéed foie gras or pate de foie gras d'oie, and even with fine chocolates, although in most cases wine and chocolate are incompatible.

But then again, icewine is unique!

The best Canadian icewine producers are:

Vineland Estates Riesling,
Stoney Ridge, Gewurztraminer
Royal de Maria Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc
Magnotta, Riesling
Reif, Riesling
Inniskillin, Riesling,
Mission Hill, Riesling,
Malivoire Riesling

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com