Red wines are best served at room temperature is as old as the hills, but room temperature changes from region to region. Room temperature in southern India has no semblance to the same setting in England.

When winemakers invented the term, they meant Central European room temperature, which hovers around 16 - 18 C (65- 70 F).

There are good reasons for this temperature range. The higher the temperature, the more readily the volatile flavour compounds evaporate from the surface of the wine glass. Therefore, red wines which are more complex than white, should be served at higher temperatures as indicated above and appropriately designed glasses, to optimize both aroma or bouquet and flavour.

At high temperatures (20 C and above) alcohol starts to evaporate markedly, and unbalances the wine both aromatically and from a flavor perspective.

Conversely, the lower the temperature the fewer volatiles evaporate and, at a serving temperature of approximately 8 C (45 F) only the most aromatic wines will emanate recognizable aromas.

Serving it very cold masks the gustatory faults of a low-quality wine. This is what many restaurants do, some knowingly, others through ignorance.

It is best to serve white wines 10 - 12 C (50 - 54 F), and high-quality fine samples even at 13 - 14 C.

Incidentally ideal cellar temperature is 50 - 54 F (10 - 12 C).

The higher the temperature the more sensitive is the palate to sweetness therefore well balanced sweet wines should be served at 12 (54 F). For the same reason, if served well chilled, off-dry wines matched with spicy food taste dry. The lower the temperature the more sensitive is the palate to tannins and bitterness. A red wine served at 20 C (76 F) will taste "hot and thin", and "supple" and pleasant at 18 C, and astringent at 10 C (50 F).

Therefore young tannic wines that are made for long cellaring should be served at 18 C.

Acidity in wine becomes more pronounced at low temperatures; hence a low acid wines taste "flabby" and unpleasant.

Also important to note that at high (18 C) more carbon dioxide is released, so that sparkling wines become overwhelmingly frothy. For the reasons mentioned above, glass surfaces exposing the wine to oxygen are important.

Red wines in general smell and taste best served in large bowl glasses, whereas white wines do so in narrower and tapered vessels. Sparkling wines benefit from service in flute shaped glasses that help reserve the bubbles and enhance both aromas and flavour.

Any liquid tends to warm up to match the ambient temperature, so pouring should be geared to the prevailing temperature. A wine served at correct temperature in a room 10 C warmer, will within 10 minutes, be at the ambient temperature, hence the taste will be distinctly different (better or worse pending on its colour and the way it was made).

Also important to remember is the fact that old wines are very sensitive to exposure of oxygen. Old red wines once decanted should be poured into appropriate glasses, and consumed within a short time to appreciate the flavour.

Serve all wines in small portions and never fill a wine glass more than third to allow for comfortable consumption. Servers that fail to observe such obvious and important rules should be corrected, and if they remain ignorant in the long run, should be patronized by those who deserve such service.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com