
June 4, 2005
Pinot Noir, the famously elegant, capricious, seductive and delightful grape of Burgundy, is finally producing impressive wines in New World wine countries. Among those, the U S A and Canada stand out, and John Winthrop Hager accomplished a feat no other writer has, to date. There are many scholarly books written about Pinot Noir, but this one deals exclusively with the North American version. This makes it unique and invaluable for all those who constantly seek the elusive, and this grape is indeed elusive. Unlike other French grape varieties from other regions, the theory goes that it is disappointing mostly when planted outside Burgundy due to terroir. Yet few writers attempted to explain the reasons of failure. John Haeger attempts to disprove the theory that Pinot Noir cannot yield fine red wines outside Burgundy. He meticulously researched the Burgundian connection, its history, clones, yields, winemaking and the taste and textural effects of aging in different barrels.
In part two, the author analyses 72 American wineries noted for their Pinot Noir wines, their techniques, and comments on the different vintages of each. Unfortunately, he does not mention any Canadian winery, although there are certainly a few worth mentioning. This is a well researched, and eloquently written book that all wine lovers should read, and definitely anyone who is a Pinot Noir fan. Several French barrel makers who even wine writers have never heard of are mentioned although the art of barrel making contributes immensely to both flavour and texture of wine in general but to Pinot Noir in particular. Even winemakers involved with Pinot Noir stand to benefit using this information for acquiring a barrel from Rousseau, Cadus, Billon, just to name a few.
Various winemaking techniques employed by eccentric cellar masters are revealing and enlightening.
True Pinot Noir lovers will cherish this book and appreciate a well-made North American Pinot Noir more than ever before.
Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca
www.littlefatwino.com