ODE TO WINE
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

April 16, 2008


Great wines have often been called works of art, sometimes in thoughtless effusion, but often quite seriously. The claim fails to stand up to careful scrutiny but the enthusiasm that led to it is understandable, for though winemaking is arguably an art form, it is surely one of the most exalted of all crafts. If you trace winemaking for a time some of the similarities that it involves does bear real artwork. Then you might reach the conclusion that the high standards by which the world's great wines are judged, and why they are held to account by such standards, and why, in favourable vintages (at least in European regions) years, they can meet and even exceed them all.

Surprising parallels exist between a great wine and a great novel. Of the mass of undistinguished prose that one reads from day to day, one generally asks for information, perhaps a little amusement. Newspaper stylebooks and trends prevailing in the "bestsellers" industry usually ensure that a little portion of what people read, is indeed reality. Similarly, when one purchases an everyday "house" wine, one seeks and expects only to be refreshed, or to be provided with a beverage that will serve as a modest complement to an ordinary meal. One hopes that the wine will taste fruity, have a pleasant taste, free of faults and well balanced. The only expectation is that the wine to distinguish itself; will taste more or less like any other wine of its class, crushed from an anonymous blend of any number of grape varieties gathered from any number of different vineyards, and be of a similar price point.

Our expectations escalate steeply when we take in hand a celebrated novel, or pour out a glass of a famous wine i.e. a classified Bordeaux chateau wine from a fine vintage or a celebrated grand cru Burgundy. If, happily, our expectations are met, these experiences of reading and tasting will be quite different. In the case of the novel we will find ourselves forcefully addressed by the author's “voice", a voice that, because it is the unique voice of one gifted individual will be a distinctive voice, full of character and immediacy. The wine too, being the product of choice fruit from a single vineyard, will signal its distinct nature with an intense and concentrated bouquet and taste. To the educated palate, the grape varieties used are readily discernible. But intensity of flavour alone does not make a great wine; just as mere vigor or novelty is not all that distinguishes the great author from the hack. Avoiding simplistic clichés, the true writer brings the world to us in his/her book in all its complexity. Because of the profundity of his/her insight, the writer will bring depth, as well as breadth, to his/her vision of the human condition. In similar fashion, great wine will express not only the fruity vitality of the grape, but all its subtle shadings of flavour and fragrance as well, echoes of what the roots discovered in the soil, alchemized by long years of aging or expert winemaking.

A fine wine is poetry in glass. It is to be admired, evaluated, enjoyed and appreciated.

NOTE: Canadian ice wine is spelled icewine and is a trademarked noun

Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com