These steps were mostly necessitated when shipping wines long distances became popular. Originally wine was a locally produced and consumed alcoholic beverage, although small scale shipments occurred in the Middle East even before modern Gregorian calendar became universal.

Modern wine processing technology applies mostly to huge export-oriented, New World wineries striving to produce homogenous, “palate adjusted” wines to appeal to the lowest common denominator, price conscious, and newcomers to the wine world.

On the other hand, small to hand small to medium-sized wineries both in Europe and the New World strive to produce organic wines. Some even try for biodynamic wines for those who like purity, and accept what nature provides each vintage. Human intervention in the vineyard and winery are at an absolute minimum.

Organic wines originate in vineyards free of synthetic chemicals (fungicides and pesticides). Grapes are harvested, sorted, pressed, and fermented without the help of cultured yeasts. A small amount of sulfites is permitted to guarantee stability of the wines. Sulfites occur naturally in the skin of grapes, and are in all wines, albeit in minute quantities. Vineyards are kept free of pests by introducing their known and natural predators.

Organic wines are generally not filtered, and if they are, the process is very light. Mostly gravity and decanting are employed to eliminate lees.

Biodynamic wine production requires that natural phenomena like the position of the moon, barometric pressure during bottling, hand harvesting, no irrigation, no concentration of the must, taking into account frequencies and using natural fertilizers are only some of the requirements.

All of the above must be verified either by government agencies or companies qualified and registered to inspect and control organic and/or biodynamic food and alcoholic beverage producers.

Nicolas Joly of Coulee de Serrant, in Savennieres, Loire is one of the most outspoken and ardent believers of biodynamic wine production. He is well educated and earned an MBA before taking over his family owned vineyard of seven hectares. Shortly after taking over he decided to farm organically and two years later to go biodynamic.

Accordingly, he purchased a dozen Nantais cows to obtain natural fertilizer then started using sheep to eat the grass between the rows, and plows his vineyard with a horse drawn plough. Goats were abandoned after one season, since they ate everything on the vines.

According to him, chemical fertilizers are salts, and change the composition of the soil by killing all living organisms. Salts also force vines to absorb more water from the soil, thus increase yields but decrease fruit flavour, which eventually ends up producing faintly fruity wines.

Viticulturists interviewed for this article confirmed that organic vineyard vines look much healthier than those that are managed by using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides and fungicides.

Nicolas Joly’s yields are lower (around 25 – 26 1/2 hectoliters/hectare) and are very potent, almost austere, requiring decanting well over 12 hours prior to service, and he recommends even longer periods of aeration.

Once opened, his wines remain in drinkable condition and oxidize very little for up to 36 hours, according to his brochure.

Mr. Joly’s wines happen to be very expensive but there is no shortage of consumers in the United Kingdom, the U S A, Japan, and elsewhere in the world. 85 percent of Coulee de Serrant’s wines are exported and are also represented in Ontario by The Living Vine. Recently 46 wineries (31 from France, 3 from the U SA, each one from New Zealand, Australia and Austria, five form Italy and four from Spain poured their products in Toronto.

The following stood out:

Altenberg Bergheim Riesling, 2004, Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace, excellent concentration, balance and aromatic strength. 94/100

Mambourg Grand Cru Riesling, 2004, Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace, superb fruit, depth and elegance 92/100

Champagne Bedel, 1998, floral, off dry, deeply flavoured and delicate 94/100

Cuvee Ciel et Terre, Champagne Bedel intense, medium-bodied, ethereal, long aftertaste 91/100

Coulee de Serrant, 2006, N. Joly, Loire intense with hints of apples, pears and rich in aromas and flavours. Long aftertaste. A wine to cellar at least two to three years. 95/100

Cornas, Les Terasses du Serre, 2006, Domaine du Coulet, Cotes du Rhone superb depth, multidimensional, fruity, full-bodied with a long aftertaste 91/100

Vaqueyras Les Clos, 2005, Montrius, Cotes du Rhone intense, flavourful, dark red, full bodied and balanced 92/100

Sangiovese, 2006, Campi Nuovi, Tuscany cherry aromas exude from the glass, medium body, light red, and well balanced 91/100 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Grog’s Leap, California smooth, full-bodied with aromas of plum and ripe red berries. 91/100

Dofi, 2005, A. Palacios, Priorat, Spain composed of 60 percent carignane, 30 grenache and 10 percent syrah, this crimson red, full-bodied wine displays all the characteristics of a sunny Mediterranean vineyard. Exuberant fruit, deeply flavoured, smooth with hints of chocolate. 94/100

Chateau Peybonhomme, 2005, Premiere Cote de Bordeaux, France composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this full-bodied Bordeaux wine shows the earthy, fruity and elegant red wine. Intense fruit flavours, depth and long aftertaste prove that good red wine can be produced in most sub-regions of Bordeaux at affordable prices. 92/100

Château Le Puy, Cuvee Barthelemy, 2005, Premiere Cote de Bordeaux, barrel aged for 20 – 24 months this wine has good intensity, fruit concentration, extract and full body. Only 6500 bottles were produced from 55-year-old vines with a yield of 30 hectoliters/hectare, whereas the official minimum required yield is 35.

Clos St. Urbain Pinot Gris, 2005, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace excellent typical Alsatian Pinot Gris flavours, aromas and concentration. Smooth, full-bodied and refined. 91/100

Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive, 2005, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace powerful, floral with hints of cinnamon. Honeyed flavours hint on partial botrytis. Gentle with smooth, clean and long aftertaste 93/100

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com