Regardless of all the above monikers, when pinot noir is planted in the right terroir and yields are kept low, the resulting wine can be great or heavenly or simply unforgettable.

Pinot noir originated in Burgundy and belongs to the pinot family along with pinot blanc, pinot meunier, chardonnay (old professionals still call chardonnay pinot chardonnay) but has the unfortunate tendency to mutate. The soil must be calcareous, well drained, and the weather cool with a long summer. Pinot noir grapes are pale, smell of strawberries, forest floor (rotting leaves, barnyard), appealing, with a lively mouth feel and succulent. Pinot noir is literally a "cool" wine and should be served at least three degrees Celsius cooler than other red wine possibly at same temperature as young Beaujolais.

In good vintages, pinot noir wines from Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Volnay, Vosne-Romanee, Romanee-Conti, La Tache, Musigny and Pommard are unforgettable. Some spirit drinkers are known to have become instant wine converts after experiencing fine red Burgundy. The fame of pinot noir continuous growers everywhere to emulate Burgundians. Some are more successful than others. In the new World, Oregon, northern California's Sonoma County, Santa Barbara in the U S A, Niagara Peninsula in Ontario, Yarra Valley and Tasmania in Australia, Marlborough and Otago in New Zealand and Piedmont in Italy have been able to produce respectable pinot noirs.

Many wine connoisseurs believe Ontario to have the right climate for fine pinot noir and the directors of Ontario Wine Society were confident enough to stage a blind tasting of local and imported pinot noirs.

Out of nine wines served, the winner was from Ontario, the runner up from New Zealand, and the third from France.

The winner, a 2002 Delaine vineyard pinot noir from Jackson-Triggs ($ 24.95 at the winery) displayed all the typical aromas and flavours of a fine pinot noir along with a respectable aftertaste. The Delaine vineyard is owned by the president and CEO of Vincor, the parent company of Jackson-Triggs.

The second was from Marlborough's Oyster Bay 2002 New Zealand ($ 24.95) was delightfully light, acid-driven and of great delicacy and finesse.

The third in the line up was a simple red Burgundy 2002 from Parent displaying fine fruit and succulence, but not great depth. There was also a mystery wine, which was revealed only after everyone on the group tired to guess its place of origin.

It turned out to be from Prince Edward County, a two-hour drive from Toronto on the north shore of Lake Ontario. The wine was from a two-year old vineyard and still young but displayed encouraging flavour intensity and colour.

Prince Edward County is one of Ontario's most promising pinot noir regions. The only problem of this region is super cold winters and often cool growing with insufficient heat units to ripen the fruit fully.

There were two unexpected surprises. Two Pelee Island pinot noirs from the eponymous winery poured during the reception (2002 and 2001 Reserve). The 2002 was unquestionably a fine pinot noir worthy of making efforts to locate. (The wine is available at the winery.) The other surprise was pinot noir from Henry of Pelham. This reserve 2002 had all the characteristics of a fine pinot noir and succulence that compelled me to have a second glass.

That is the true test of a fine wine!

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca

Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com