MATCHING WINE AND CHEESE
by Professor Hrayr Berberoglu.

March 16, 2008


One of the longest standing wine and food partnerships is that of cheese and wine. It dates back 6000 years almost as old as recorded history. Wine is the classic companion for cheese and both complement each other superbly. The fat content of cheese coats the taste buds and makes wine appear to be much smoother and tastier than it is in reality.

Most Mediterranean countries produce both wine and cheese. Generally foods and wines produced in a region complement each other admirably well. The saying: " What grows together, goes well together " seems to apply here more than in other circumstances.

However, there are many European cheese producing countries that are too cold for grape growing. England, Scotland, Belgium, all Scandinavian countries are some that come to mind, ( England does produce some wine but generally too little to mention.) In such instances, knowing the taste of cheeses and wines helps make successful decisions.

Cheeses fall into four categories:

Soft
Semi-soft
Hard
Blue veined

All have different tastes and textures pending on milk quality, and production techniques.

Generally soft cheeses as Camembert, Brie, Triple Cream, Taleggio, Mascarpone just to name a few are mild and should be matched with mild white wines.

Tannic wines are generally inappropriate for cheese. Young Beaujolais, soft, fruity Pinot Noir wines and Gamays are fine as they contain very little tannin. Old red wines and those from Australia displaying very soft tannins are also fine with cheeses.

Mature, unwooded white wines go well with mild cheeses. It is important to remember to serve wines not too cold when pairing with cheese for the fat will solidify when the cold wine hits the palate.

A champagne or for that matter dry sparkling wine is fine with a ewe's milk cheese while a fruity, full bodied Pinot Noir sparkling wine may blend well with a chunk of Parmiggiano Reggiano.

Semi-soft cheeses tend to be more assertive and could stand well-made rose wines, light reds such as Beaujolais, but also cask aged, flavourful white wines. Some popular semi-soft cheeses are: Oka, St. Paulin, Comte, Cantal, Bel Paese, Mozzarella di Buffala, Havarti, Buttercheese, Cacciocavallo, Tetilla and Monterey Jack. (For successful matches see sidebar)

Hard cheeses are aged and generally possess stronger flavours, thus require full-bodied, deeply flavoured wines that can complement and enhance them Popular hard cheeses are: Cheddar, Brick, Hermitage, Edam, Gouda, Emmental, Gruyere, Pecorino, Parmigiano, Manchego, Iberico and Gravyera.

Blue veined cheeses are generally regarded as the aristocrats of the cheese world. They possess a distinct taste, creamy texture, (may be crumbly too) and tang. They are always more flavourful than other cheeses. A selection criterion depends on personal preferences. Some of the most popular blue veined cheeses are Roquefort, Stilton, Danish Blue, Cambozola, Bleu d'Auvergne, Gex, St Fleur, Cabrales, Gamoneu, Gorgonzola, and Shropshire blue.

It should be noted that wide cheese variety is available only in larger and more cosmopolitan cities in both Europe and Americas. Remotely located small cities simply do not generate sufficient demand to warrant stores to carry a large selection.

Special cheeses require attention additional ripening on premises. Only specialized merchants can offer this service. ( This process is called affinage ).

In Paris, Bordeaux, Marseille, London, Edinburgh, New York and Toronto there are many cheese specialists that carry a wide range and also ripen a number of special cheeses.

Some Far Eastern cultures simply do not favour cheese and in fact these peoples are lactose intolerant. South American indigenous peoples have never developed a liking to cheese. Processed cheese usually offers less both taste and aroma. Also it has an artificial soft and vaxy texture. Processed cheeses offer one advantage in that they have a long shelf life.

Hard cheeses store much longer and can be frozen successfully. Soft or semi-soft cheeses stores less well and should not be frozen. Regardless of quality all cheese must be consumed at room temperature ( at approximately 16 - 18 C ) with appropriate breads, biscuits, nuts and fruits. Needless to say all good cheeses benefit from appropriately chosen wines.

SOFT CHEESES

Ibores, Torta de la Serena, Brie Camembert, Triple Cream, Tallegio, Mascarpone, Caree de l'Est, Boursin, Boursault, and Chaource

WINES RECOMMENDED

Rueda and White Rioja wines, Pinot Blanc from Alsace, Ontario, B.C, Friuli, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Loire or Ontario or South Africa. Aligote Chateau des Charmes, Chardonnay Colio Harrowe Estates, Riesling Hernder, Pinot Blanc Konzelmann, Vidal Reif, Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling, Salmon Run Riesling, Dr Konstantin, Torrontes Casa Latina, Gentil Hugel, Pinot Blanc Trimbach, Mouton Cadet Blanc, Baron de Rohtschild Wines, sauvingon Blanc Fortant de France Skalli, Chateau des Nages Blanc, Piesporter Michelsberg Qualitaetswein Drathen, Pinot Blanc Deinhard, Dunavar Pinot Blanc St Ursula, Pinot grigio Collavini, Soave Classico Masi, Gotto d'Oro Frascati Superiore, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Citra, Mueller-Thurgau Corban.

SEMI-SOFT

Garrotxa, Manchego, Iberico, Majorero, Zamorano, Afuegal Pitu, San Simon Oka, St. Paulin, Comte, Cantak, Bel Paese, Mozzarella di Buffala, Havarti, Monterey Jack, Buttercheese

RECOMMEDED WINES

Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate Chateau des Charmes, Chardonnay Estate Chateau des Charmes,Sauvignon Blanc, Stone Road series, Hillebrand, Riesling Trius Series, Hillebrand, Pinot Gris Inniskillin, Chardonnay Reif, Riesling Thirty Bench, Dry Riesling Vineland Estate,Vintners Select Chardonnay Mission Hill, Chardonnay Banrock Station, Black Opal Chardonnay, Marsanne Chateau Tahbilk, Sauvignon Blanc Bin 95 Lindeman, Semillon Peter Lehmann, Poachers Blend St Hallett, Fume Blanc Fetzer, Riverstone Chardonnay J Lohr Estates, Sauvignon Blanc Casa Laposatolle, Pinot Gris L Beyer, Riesling Beyer, Chateau Bonnet, Macon Lugny St Pierre Bouchard Pere et Fils, Chateau de Sancerre Marnier Lapostolle, Muscadet de Sevre et Main Remy-Pannier, Chardonnay L'Ardechel Latour, Verdicchio Fazi-Battaglia, Sauvignoin Blanc Nobilo, Dao Grao vasco, Chardonnay Drostdy-Hof, Sauvignon Blanc Nederburg

HARD CHEESES

Brick, Hermitage, Old Cheddar, Edam, Gouda, Emmenthal, Gruyere, Kasheri, Parmigiano, Grana Padano, Appenzeller, Smoked Idiazabal, Mahon, Munster, Pecorino, Murcia al Vino, Jarlsberg, Asiago

RECOMMENDED WINES

Pinot Noir Cilento, Baco Noir Colio Harrow Estates, Cabernet Franc Colio Harrow Estates, Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson-Triggs, Proprietor's Reserve Merlot Jackson-Triggs, Merlot Konzelmann, Cabernet Franc Pelee Isalnd, Gamay/Zweigelt Pelee Isalnd, Pinot Noir Hawthorne, Reserve Merlot Mission Hill, Shiraz Banrock Station, Cabernet/Merlot Black Opal, Black label Cabernet Sauvignon W Blass, Black Opla Shiraz, W Blass, Jamieson's Run Coonawara Cabernet/Shiraz/ /Merlot Penfold's, Barossa Shiraz P Lehmann, Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Rosemount Estates, Gamekeeper's Reservce St Hallett, Long Flat Red Tyrell, Australian Shiraz W Blass, Founder's reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Beringer, Merlot Forestville, Cabernet Sauvignon Mondavi Coastal, Dunnigan Hills Syrah RH Phillips, Malbec casa latina, Mendoza Malbec J and F Lurton, Cabernet Sauvignon Casa Lapostolle, Merlot Casillero del Diablo Concha y Toro, Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon Cousino Macul, Don Maximiniano Cabernet Sauvignon Errazuriz, Cabernet Sauvignon reserva Santa Rita, Merlot Undurraga, 120 Merlot Santa Rita, Chateau Montlabert, Moutin Cadet Red Baron de Rothschild Wines, Morgon Bouchard Pere et Fils, Cotes de Beaune Village J Drouhin, Minervois Skalli, Merlot Fortnat de France Skalli, Parallele 45 P Jaboulet, Cabernet Sauvignon Hatzimichalis, Agiorgitiko Tsantali, Amarone Masi, Campofiorin masi, Vino di Ripasso Valoplicella Cesari, Serego Alighieri Rosso Masi, Valpolicella Masi, Brusco dei Barbi Fattoria dei Barbi e Casale, Chianti Classico Barone Ricasoli, Chianti Classico Antinori, Castello di Nippozano Frescobaldi, Rubecso Lungarotti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Tenute Trerosse, Nero d'Avola Fazio, Charamba Douro, Periquita Fonseca, Hippo Creek Pinotage, cabernet Sauvingon Nederburg, cabernet Merlot Sinya valley, Conde de Valdemar Crianza M Bujanda, Marques de Riscal Rioja, Sangre de Toro Torres, Pemranillo/Merlot Bodegas Nekeas

BLUE VEINED CHEESES

Danish Blue, Gorgonzola, Cambozola, Roquefort, Stilton, Bleu d'Auvergne, Cabrales

RECOMMENDED WINES

Late Harvest Vidal Magnotta, Alvear's Amontillado, Fino Old Madeira Casa Dos Vinhos, Special reserve Port Cockburn, Late Bottled Vintage Port Graham, Full Rich Ruby Kopke, Late Bottled Vintage Port Reserve Taylor, Late Harvest Vidal Colio, Otima 10-year-old Warre


Hrayr Berberoglu took early retirement after lecturing on restaurant management and conducting wine, beer and spirits seminars for over a quarter of a century.

Now he consults and writes to increase wine, beer and liquor awareness. He conducts seminars and would be pleased to consider your requests. To peruse the list of his published books and order please contact him at hirayrberberoglu_3@sympatico.ca


Hryar Berberoglu www.littlefatwino.com