Ontario wines come into their own
"...Here with a Loaf of Bread beneath the Bough.
The Persian poet Omar Khayyam didn't have Ontario wine in mind when he wrote those lines eight centuries ago, but local wine lovers are ready to make the substitution.
Peterborough and area consumers are caught up in the increasing popularity of Ontario wines, according to a Liquor Control Board of Ontario employee who's become an expert in the field and the president of the Kawartha chapter of the Ontario Wine Society.
Whether it's a white Chardonnay or a red Baco Noir, wine society members are keen enough about what's produced in Ontario to organize frequent sampling events.
Cave Spring Dry Riesling is the wine of choice for chapter president Graham Keats.
"It has a lot of flavor, a lot of fruit, a lingering aftertaste just a very satisfying wine," says Keats.
According to Keats, pretty well every year has been good for Riesling. For white wines in general, 1990 was a great year. For reds, 1991 stands out, with 1989 close behind.
Keats, who's a doctor when he's not tasting wine, says that 1990 wasn't necessarily a bad year for reds. Wines from that year lacked some of the usual flavor and intensity, but a person would have to sample several different years to really notice the difference.
The society's interest in Ontario wines has sharpened to the point where members are planning a large scale Ontario wine and cheese festival in Lakefield in the summer of 1993.
Perhaps the most famous of Ontario wines, at least internationally, is ice wine.
At about $40 for a 375 millilitre (13 ounce) bottle, Ontario ice wine isn't cheap. But enthusiasts say it isn't meant for cheap conversation.
Made during the winter from frozen grapes, ice wine is considered to hold the highest profile among Ontario wines. One variety won top honors in the sweet wine category at the 1991 Vinexpo, held in the Bordeaux region of France.
"It's sweet, extremely concentrated in flavor," explains society member Larry Paterson, assistant manager at the Lakefield LCBO store.
According to Paterson, ice wine tastes like a liqueur and should be sipped as such. Yet, it should be handled like a wine and not left half-empty, to be finished later. Above all, it should never be stored unrefrigerated with other liqueurs.
"By the next day, it would be a flat, sweet-tasting mess," Paterson said. "It would lose everything that made it special. It would lose its acidity, a lot flavor would disappear, it would lose its life."
The Ontario wine industry's move to respectability began about 15 years ago, when the province's wineries switched from native wild grapes to hgher quality European varieties, Paterson said. The southern Ontario lake area climate is perfect for grape growing.
Paterson's eyes light up as he relates the joy of being paid to engage in his favorite hobby. As assistant manager, he's helped make the Lakefield outlet's Ontario wine shelves among the best stocked in the province.
Dozens of Ontario wines, red and white, take up nearly one third the store's space. Most of them are identifiable by a green and black VQA logo. The VQA which stands for Vintners' Quality Alliance is an independent body that sets standards for Ontario wines and ensures these standards are met. VQA wines are certified by a council with representation from Ontario wineries, grape growers, the LCBO and academic and research institutions.
The VQA is also busy promoting member wineries. At most liquor stores, the organization's logo is prominently displayed above the product. At about 26 Peterborough area stores, printouts prepared by Paterson give more detailed information about VQA wines.
IN PRAISE OF QUALITY
Lakefield may be host to a major wine and cheese festival next year.
Members of the Kawartha chapter of the Ontario Wine Society are planning a large event for the summer of 1993 to celebrate the province's output.
Although the provinces's wineries are located mainly around Lake Erie and in the Niagara Peninsula, there's considerable interest in the Kawarthas at least when it comes to wine tasting.
More than 35 people belong to the local chapter, which started in September, 1990 with a wine tasting event at the Smith Township home of club president Graham Keats.
The local chapter has several events planned this year and is pointing toward the planned community wine and cheese festival in July, 1993.
The next major event is a tasting of late harvest wines at Giovanni's Dining Room in Lakefield April 22. The cost is $14 for non-members and $12 for members, but people should call the society in advance at 749-1981 or 743-4153.
A weekend of private and public events is planned for the May 2-3 at the Viamed Resort and Conference Centre on Stoney Lake. For the public, there's an opportunity to sample Ontario wines and cheeses from 1:30 to 4:30 p.m. May 3. For information call 652-1166."
Area consumers caught up in growing popularity
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