Peterborough This Week
August 15, 2003
By Blair Edwards

'Little Fat Wino' et al envision a wine-producing future for area

"A "little fat wino" and two doctors circled the grounds of a vineyard, chatting about sparkling white wines and full-bodied Cabernets.

Larry Paterson, a.k.a The Little Fat Wino -- the name he uses on his wine-lover's web site -- stops to inspect a vine's leaves, roll the red grapes between his fingers.

The 120-vine vineyard, owned by Dr. Garry Humphreys, is just the beginning, says Mr. Paterson.

The group, leaders with the Central Ontario Viniculture Association (COVA,) one day envision Peterborough as a hot bed of grape-growing and wine-making activity.

"We're trying to prove you can grow grapes in this area and (do so) commercially," says Mr. Paterson.

The three wine lovers say Peterborough vineyards should be able to produce a good red or white that sells commmercially for $8 to $10 per bottle.

Dr. Bryan Pell, president of COVA, owns the other vineyard that is the testing ground for the COVA five-year project.

They hope to produce, by 2006, a minimum of 60 litres each of four types of wine grown near the city of Peterborough -- a light fruity easy-drinking red wine, a haeavy red wine, an aromatic light white wine and a neutral white wine.

"It could be a real tourist draw," says Dr. Pell. "There's a romance about wine."

COVA also wants to identify the hardiest vines.

"Then we can tell people which grape varieties are the hardiest and can produce a good wine," says Mr. Paterson.

The Central Ontario Viniculture Association project planted two test plots of about 100 vines each at vineyards near Peterborough.

The other plot -- soon to be known as Chateau Humphreys but now called Hugo's Vineyard -- is owned by Dr. Humphreys and his wife Eleanor.

Huge, a Great Pyrenees, is Dr. Humphrey's faithful dog.

"Hugo is death to rabbits," says Mr. Paterson as he walks through the rows of vines, followed by the dog who appears to be a hybrid of a furry baby elephant and a four-foot tall teddy bear.

The wine varieties are North American and the French hybrids are native to Minnesota, brought to Ontario from Quebec vineyards in 2002.

The vines were the best of those available to withstand -30 degrees Celsius, ripen in hot temperatures and have high disease resistance.

Of the 200 vines planted, 40 of each will be devoted to producing each of the four red and white wines.

The rest of the vines will be teseted for how well they can withstand a cold Peterborough winter, disease resistance, ripening parameters and wine-making suitability.

The project began in May 2002 with postholes for planting vines and the perimeter fence dug in June 2002. A heavy black plastic mulch was placed underneath the vines to control weed growth.

Hugo's Vineyard is organic with no chemicals sprayed on the leaves.

Recently, Rotary Club members visited the vineyard and paid $20 apiece to name each vine, raising $2,700 for the service club's international campaign to wipe out polio.

Mona Lisa hangs a row apart from Big Red.

Nearby is Denise's Downfall.

The area is ripe for potential grape growth, says the trio of wine lovers.

Scores of amateur vineyard owners dot the Peterborough area.

A local winery, Kawartha Country Wines, owned by John Rufa, will soon open in Buckhorn, producing a mix of apple, pear and berry wines.

"Watch us grow," says Dr. Humphreys."

www.littlefatwino.com