Canada versus BordeauxGord Stimmell Toronto Star Tony Aspler - A Wine Lover's Diary
Rick Van Sickle, Toronto Sun Deacon Dr. Fresh's Blog
Dean Tudor's Wine Trades Diary Jan 2006 Ontario Wine Society Press Release
Ontario Wine Review Michael Pinkus

Wow! More than 140 winos gathered at the Ontario Club in downtown T'ranna to see how Canadian wines stacked up against Red Bordeaux in a blind tasting. This was intended as a fun learning experience modeled on the series of more rigid tastings between Canadian Cab Merlots and classed Growth Bordeaux. I've been working on these with ex-LCBO Wine guru Hugh Johnstone since the early 90's. Tasters were members and guests of the Ontario Wine Society (OWS) - ranging from members of the wine press and serious collectors to people having a fun evening with wine. Also present were members of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers.
Canadian wines were provided by the Canadian wineries involved, the New Zealand wine was provided by Robert Ketchin, and the Bordeaux were selected and provided by Sopexa (the organization to promote French wine) - thanks to you all!
OWS Director Sadie Darby was the person responsible for this tasting, hosted on her 25th birthday (according to Deacon Dr. Fresh!) - And I thought that Sadie-lady was 39!!). Boss Darby and her "Marauders" -the staff of volunteer pourers - arranged it so that when the crowds came in they arrived to find 10 glasses of wine poured for them in a semicircle of delight. The clicking of the pouring spouts had subsided just in time. Ten people pouring more than 1400 samples imitates the sounds of a field full of demented crickets! And wine was still running down the inside of the glasses as people entered the room. Good thing my lovely wife Barb was there to keep me pouring as old fart-itis of the pouring arm was setting in fast. And next time I'm not picking the heaviest bottle to pour from...
Each taster was provided with a 20-point scoresheet which included a column for ranking their wines 1st through 10th. Tony Aspler, Canada's favourite Wine Guy and author of the upcoming Wine Atlas of Canada, gave the opening comments and instructions, and they were off and nosing! Each taster had a second sheet that they copied their rankings onto, and each had the opportunity to write down their name, which ones they felt were from Bordeaux, and which was the ringer. The room was quiet for a while as people came to understand that they faced a tough assignment rather than the sinecure they'd expected.
The evening did turn into a fun and educational experience, but not until after the culture shock induced by the amazing similarities between the wines had passed. This was far from a stuffy roomful of swirling pinky fingers, rather a group of people - expert or no - enjoying 10 wines that were all good. The silence slowly progressed to a more normal level of social interchange (you thought I was going to say social intercourse, didn't you). Sadie finally called the halt and the ranking sheets were collected.
Tony stood up at the end of the tasting, gave the room his personal notes and identified the wines. Three tasters (including Toronto Star Wine Writer Gordon Stimmel) did indeed identify all three Bordeaux. Tony explained at length that it was a tribute to the Canadian wine industry that this event could happen, and that it was very difficult to tell the Canadian from the Bordeaux. Funny how most Canadians - especially Baby Boomers like moi-self! - assume that anyone with any wine knowledge at all should be able to tell them apart at twenty paces by some subtle aura in the ether!
NOT!!
{Must be some kind of Baby-Duck induced flashback to the 70's}
The scoring system used was quite basic - 10 points for first place, 9 for second, 8 for third down to 1 for tenth - When it was all over, the New Zealand entry had won the race by a nose over the 2002 Stoney Ridge from Niagara, with Sumac Ridge 2001 Pinnacle, Colio 2002 CEV Merlot and Southbrook Triomphe 99 also distinguishing themselves in the top half.
From my own viewpoint, I was quite happy to see this less-rigid competition won by a great wine from another cool climate. This validates the whole exercise, and scotches the idea of "regional palate". The Newton Forrest Cornerstone 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec won the Carter & Associates Champion Cabernet Sauvignon or Predominant Blend Trophy at the prestigious 2005 Air New Zealand Awards. I have long felt that any wine made from the right varieties in a cool climate in the right way would be a suitable competitor to those of Bordeaux. This should be considered one of New Zealand's best, and well done. My favourites? - the 2002 Chateau l'Hospital followed closely by the 1999 Southbrook and the 2001 Oculus.
All in all well worth the trip from Peterborough [that city of new vineyards north of Highway 7] to downtown Hogtown to see what people do with wine in the big city…
Larry Paterson (LFD, RD)
The results follow: (note that Wine # 1 always gets murdered!)
(Little Fat Wino, Roving Drunk)
www.littlefatwino.com
at the Ontario Club, Toronto
January 16, 2006 (140 tasters)
Place
Wine #
Points
Country
Vintage
Producer
Wine Name
$Retail
1st
3
746
New Zealand
2002
Forrest Estate
Newton Forrest Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot / Malbec
$42.75
2nd
8
743
Ontario
2002
Stoney Ridge Estate Winery
Founder's Signature Collection Meritage
$34.95
3rd
4
693
British Columbia
2001
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
Pinnacle
$45.00
4th
9
680
Ontario
2002
Colio Estate Wines
CEV Merlot Reserve
$24.95
5th
5
644
Ontario
1999
Southbrook Winery
Triomphe Cabernet Merlot
$39.95
6th
7
629
British Columbia
2001
Mission Hill Family Estate
Oculus
$50.00
7th
10
608
Bordeaux
2002
Veyret Latour
Chateau l'Hospital
$27.95
8th
2
580
Bordeaux
2000
Chateau Segonzac
Chateau Segonzac
$32.95
9th
1
557
Ontario
1998
Lakeview Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon
$25.00
10th
6
446
Bordeaux
2003
Chateau Puyfromage
Chateau Puyfromage
$13.65
