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Wine (Toronto Sun May 8, 2005)
By Rick VanSickle
LCBO head honcho spoils the party
It was an ill-timed, ill-conceived attack on the media, which dare question the antics of the head controller who dictates what you and I drink with an iron fist.
How dare the press question Brandt on such things as the $1.115 billion profit that we are expected to accept without scrutiny.
As Brandt launched his attack on the media in the room that, frankly, was comprised more of wine agency and LCBO staff than press, eyes rolled and embarrassment was felt by all. A friendly lunch, held to highlight the wonderful wines of California, is hardly the place for Brandt’s politics. And, frankly, why was he a speaker at all? Does anyone care what Brandt has to say about California wines?
Under his rule, we are woefully under-represented by the region. Under his thumb, we have fallen far behind in terms of keeping up with what is hot and new in California despite the wine institute’s best efforts. The only way to get a new listing at the LCBO, it would seem, is if you spend a pile of money promoting your own products in LCBO publications and with in-store promotions. Only the very large companies producing mass amounts of wine can come up with that kind of dough.
As a member of the wine press, I am invited to hundreds of tastings a year. The refrain is the same everywhere I go. Agents can’t get new, interesting products listed at the LCBO. It demands label changes, mass production quotas and constantly competes with cheap plonk that dominates most LCBO shelves. It is nearly impossible for an unproven, new wine to get a listing in Ontario.
The LCBO has lost its way; and if we are to believe the $1.115 billion profit, it may be good for the bottom line but it isn’t good for the consumer. With that aside, the wine institute staff, led by Canada’s No. 1 man, Rick Slomka, did an outstanding job showcasing the wines of California. This was the 25th anniversary of Canada’s largest cross-country tasting tour and this was the biggest consumer event in its history. Over 400 wines from 100 different California wineries poured for a crowded room of wine enthusiasts.
California represents 95% of all U.S. wine sales in Ontario, which translates to $80 million in sales. And it’s growing. Koch said one of the big reasons for the increase is a balanced supply and demand. “The California wine glut is gone,” he said. Wine quality is better than ever.” Enjoy!
Call it a good lunch spoiled. As we sat, ate and listened to enlightening speakers at the California Wine Trade luncheon at the Royal York Hotel – including California Wine Institute CEO Bobby Koch’s impassioned speech about the battle for cross-state wine shipping – our own head honcho of everything that is booze in Ontario, LCBO Chairman Andy Brandt, stood up and scolded the wine press in attendance.
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