Rick Van Sickle, Toronto Sun


Ontario's Southbrook is a taste Triomphus
by Rick Van Sickle.
Toronto Sunday Sun, Feb 25, 2007





It's no fluke that Southbrook Winery took top spot in a major Ontario vs. Bordeaux tasting recently.

It's the second time in a year that Southbrook's Triomphus Cabernet Merlot has either taken top spot or placed near the top in a blind tasting against wines from Bordeaux.

The most recent results come from a more structured tasting organized by Larry Paterson and pitted big, classified Bordeaux wines against some of the best Ontario red wines in that category.

Paterson ensured a fair result by making certain there were an equal number of wines from each Boirdeaux region and that they were mature enough to be judged against the earlier maturing Ontario wines.

A total of 30 wines were poured for the judges, most of whom are members of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada.

The Southbrook Triomphus 2002 ($50) was judged the best after all the critics' notes had been tallied up.

Next came a fourth-growth Bordeaux, Chateau Pouget 2001 ($52) followed by, in order, Chateau Margaux 2001 ($339), Reif First Growth Cabernet 2001 ($50, reviewed here), Stoney Ridge Cabernet France Merlot 1995 (a library wine) tied with Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2001 ($349), Konzelmann Cabernet Merlot Reserve 1998 (library wine), Chateau Langoa Barton 1995 ($89), Pillitteri Trivalente 2002 ($75) and Chateau Gruard Larose 1999 ($97).

I recently tried the Reif Estate First Growth reds and was dazzled by the quality of these wines.

The First Growth Collection was established at Reif to showcase the best of the estate's vineyards. The grapes come from the oldest vineyard blocks in the Niagara River appellation and are hand-harvested and unfiltered.

The wines are available from the winery at $50 each.

Reif Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon Niagara River 2002 -- Ripe and spicy blackberry and plum aromas with a bit of earth lift in the background. Fresh, bold flavours on the palate with balancing oak and touches of coffee bean and cedar on the finish.

Reif Estate First Growth Cabernet Merlot Niagara River 2002 -- As good as the above cab is I think this one would have placed higher up in the Bordeaux tasting. Sweet spice aromas followed by inviting blackberry, raspberry and cherry fruit. Gorgeous balance on the palate between fruit and spice and wonderful depth of flavours.

The other two wines in the series -- the pinot noir and merlot -- are also worth trying. Both are big, dark wines with plenty of earthy, oaky bits. The pinot, especially, is a rich broth of thick fruit.

... snip ... the article continues with a number of upcoming wine events in Toronto.

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