An Invitational Expert's Tasting
Held at and sponsored by
in Toronto, OntarioJanuary 23, 2007: 13 Tasters
an article by Larry Paterson
For the official results of this tasting, please visit this page
Congratulations to Southbrook Winery on their major win in this tasting!
This tasting, held at Sette Mezzo, a neat little Italian restaurant at 936 Eglinton West in Toronto, was hosted by Sommelier Zoltan Szabo. It was also organized by Hugh Johnstone (ex-LCBO chief wine consultant) and Sadie Darby (VP of the Ontario Wine Society and Administrator of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada) (and some obnoxious little fat guy). This invitational tasting was designed to accomodate all criticisms raised by experts about prior tastings in this series (see littlefatwino.com),
In this tasting, we ensured that there were an equal number of wines from each region, that the Bordeaux wines were mature enough to drink (see maturity recc's these wines), that either all wines or no wines had backup bottles, that there were no ringers, that tasters received all the wines at once (no flights), that tasters did not receive the wines in the same order as their neighbours, that the quality of the tasters would be such as to command respect and acceptance by international experts, and that all wines would be made 100% from the grape varieties accepted in the AOC Bordeaux.
The tasters were:
Alan McGinty, member, WWCC David Lawrason, member, WWCC
Dean Tudor, member, WWCC Edward Finstein, member, WWCC
John Szabo, member, WWCC Konrad Ejbich, member, WWCC
Linda Bramble, member, WWCC Lloyd Evans, The Case for Wine
Michael Pinkus, Ontario Wine Review.com Michael Sullivan, Managing Partner, The Savoy Bistro and Lounge
Sheila Swerling-Puritt, President, WWCC Steve Gunning, Chair, Wine Judges of Canada
Note: WWCC is The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
On Thursday (two days after the tasting) I had my wife randomly pour one-ounce samples that I had carefully brought back from the tasting in little glass sample bottles. My results are here.
In conclusion I believe that the series of tastings first started in the early 1990's has led to the conclusion that there are wines made in Canada which are of a quality sufficient to compete with Bordeaux. The realization is due to the support and the interest shown by some of Canada's top wine professionals, and the quality of the tasters involved over the past few tastings, especially the tasting at Brock University in February 2005, and the tasting at Ottawa in October 2005 and this tasting. Between these three tastings alone we have had 22 of the 36 members of the WWCC take part, and many other recognized wine experts as well.
I defy anyone in Canada to dispute their collective judgment as to the quality of the wines. And if the experts have some trouble telling Bordeaux from top Ontario then what chance do normal tasters have? In total, the experts guessed at 385 of the possible 390 wines (13 tasters times 30 wines each). In total, of the 385 guesses, they got 258 correct, for a correct percentage of 67.0%. Those who believe in James Bond movies think that experts should be able to tell them all. I want to see this person! {I quite safely promised in advance to kiss the butt of the person who got them all at high noon at whatever downtown Toronto intersection they chose.}
The point here is that you should get 50% when there are equal numbers tasted, and if the experts can't easily tell them apart, how will anyone else? The average price of the 15 Bordeaux wines was $120 and the average price of the Ontario wines was $35 (using current or best estimate of the prices when they were available). The average score of the 15 Bordeaux was 86.07 and the average score of the 15 Ontario was 85.14. You can judge the relative value!
I do not intend to leave the impression that all Canadian wines are worth the price charged, but if you do know which are which, there are incredible bargains relative to good Bordeaux or California in both Ontario and British Columbia. Many wines produced in Canada have little Canadian content, and I think that they are grossly overpriced. Be wary of "Cellared in Canada".
Most of the best 100% Canadian wines are sold too young, and need 5 years in the cellar to really start showing their stuff, with BC top wines readier a little earlier than Ontario top wines. Ontario is closer in style to Bordeaux, BC is closer to California. In 20 years I suspect that Ontario cabs will be considered to Bordeaux the same way that Oregon is to Burgundy, and BC to California, but I have severe doubts that Ontario's baby boomers will ever catch on... (yes, I'm one)
Trust the professional wine writers to be your guide as to which Canadian wines are the best wines or the best values (this is their job!)... Take a giant step past free government-issued advertising-oriented wine publications designed to increase their profits and sell what they want sold (for whatever reasons!). Support the works of the independent experts who don't have to toe the company line.
On behalf of the organizers I would like to thank Sol Benarroch of Sette Mezzo for allowing us to use his great little restaurant, for doing much of the work himself, and providing his staff (esp Pepe and Paula) who were of great assistance in pouring, glass-washing, serving judges and in general putting up with total disruption of their normal working environment! They also fed us after the tasting, and I can highly recommend both the pasta dish and the chicken!!! We would also like to thank David Steadman of The Wine Establishment for arranging glassware for this tasting.
Larry Paterson, January 25, 2007...
